Campsites are generally reasonably priced and good quality.
There’s a supermarket in most towns (which provide delicious fresh bread.)
The train system is good for bikes (at least in May.)
Some big climbs.
A lot of rain.
Campsites aren’t everywhere.
Slovenia is an excellent country for cycling. A lot of locals cycle, even in the mountainous areas, so the infrastructure is there and the car drivers have a “share the road” attitude. It is a mountainous country, but when we weren’t going over a mountain range it was usually a nice steady incline or decline along a river. I would highly recommend everywhere we went. You may wish to skip the two big climbs (Vršič and the Kamnic Alps), but then you would miss out on the best views.
Food was easy to come by except occasionally on Sundays, when the Mercator supermarkets were closed.
The biggest negative was the unpleasant weather. It was raining most days and if not the threat was always there. I only ran into one other cycle tourist, and they were about to cut their trip short because of the rain. There were a few times we caught trains because cycling just wasn’t very pleasant. However locals told us that it was unusually wet for May, and when it wasn’t raining it was a great temperature for cycling.
Later in summer it would almost certainly be better weather, but there will also be more tourists. Except in Bled there weren’t all that many tourists at the time we were there.
We rode to Škocjan Caves in time for the first tour of the morning. The caves are nothing less than terrific. You walk through a series of large caverns to a section with a river running through it. It reminded me a little of the mines of Moria. The walkway goes along the sides of the cave with a river raging 100m below, and a high bridge crossing between the two sides of the gorge-like cavern. The river ends as a waterfall disappearing into the depths. It’s completely awesome. Sadly we weren’t allowed to take photos inside the caves.
The entrance to Škocjan Caves
Afterwards we caught the train to Rijeka in Croatia, ending our Slovenian experience. Rijeka was a very busy city, but there’s not much else to say about it. We stayed at a hostel and looked forward to moving on in the morning. If you ever end up in Rijeka it will probably be as a stepping stone to or from the Croatian islands.
Cycled Volarje to Gorizia
Train Gorizia to Trieste
Cycled Trieste to Fernetti
Date: 25th May 2008
The next route map may be inaccurate, because we were a bit lost
In the morning we passed through a few more nice small towns before reaching Nova Gorica. Kanal in particular was memorable as it was Sunday and it seemed the whole town was walking the streets on their way home from church. Just before Nova Gorica was the largest stone arch train bridge in the world, which was very impressive. Nova Gorica is a young town with an interesting history. It was built after 1948, when a treaty left the traditionally Slovenian town of Gorizia on the Italian side of the border. A new town on the Yugoslavian side grew up to replace it.
We planned to finish up our trip in Slovenia quickly and move on to Croatia, so the plan was to take a train from Nova Gorica to Divača to see the Škocjan Caves. However there was only one train from Nova Gorica and it was in the evening. About 10 metres from the train station was the Italian border, and a couple of kilometres from there was Gorizia train station, so instead we caught the train from Gorizia to Trieste which is about 20km from Divača. This turned out to be a bit of mistake – it would likely have been quicker and easier to cycle the rest of the way (it often is).
Getting the train to Trieste was easy enough, but getting out of Trieste proved quite difficult. We had no maps and people we asked were of little help. When we did find the general direction it was a huge climb out on a narrow but very busy road with impatient drivers. I stacked it at one point after my front panniers got caught in a hedge on a narrow path. I received a few cuts and bruises, but nothing major. It was an unpleasant ride, but had I had the OSM Cycle Map I carry with me on my phone these days, we would have known there was a bike route out of the city and it would have been a much more enjoyable visit.
We ended up reaching the border a little out of our way but heading in the right direction. By then it was time to pack it in so we found a campground on the Italian side. The hard gravel pitch was a disappointment after all the nice Slovenian campsites.
Our side trip to Italy was shortlived and not so fun, but eventful.
This was the big day – over the Julian Alps via the Vršič Pass. It was a sunny morning which was great for the views. It’s about a 13km ride to the top of the pass (1611m), with approximately 800m of climb. The road is quite steep, but would be much worse if it weren’t for the hairpin bends. Each of the bends is cobblestone and a bit bumpy, but has a numbered sign with the altitude which gives a wonderful sense of progression. There are 24 numbered hairpin bends to the top. Along the way there are huts, hikers, and some of the best views around.
Millerine close to the top, with a view back at where we had come from
Wally at the top of Vršič pass
The 26 hairpin bends on the way down were very fast and fun, and with even better views. At the foot of the mountains we met up with the Soča river which we followed most of the day. At its best the Soča is supposed to be a bright emerald green. It was quite cloudy for us because of all the rain, but still a beautiful green. In fact the whole day there was very little that couldn’t be described as beautiful, including the place where we had lunch by a footbridge over the river.
Lunch spot on the Soča River
We stayed the night in Camping Vili, which was a minor highlight in itself. It was right beside the river and Vili himself was a very talkative and energetic character. He also cooked a good dinner of trout and allowed us to dry our shoes in their house. Basically it was a very homely and welcoming camp ground.
I had been looking forward to this part of the trip and it exceeded my expectations. The climb was hard work, but wouldn’t be too much of a challenge for most seasoned cyclists, and it’s worth it.
Yet another rainy day, but an easy ride. There was a rise leaving Bled, but from then on it was an easy day. Around Mojstrana a proper bike track off the main road began. It started off as a rough gravel road, but eventually became a fantastic sealed road that went all the way to Kranjska Gora and beyond. At one point the clouds retreated a little revealing the view of the Julian Alps, which were quite impressive. The road goes alongside Triglav National Park and is fairly flat. Fantastic views and an easy ride.
Although we made it Kranjska Gora fairly early, we were soaked and it seemed a good idea to leave the crossing of the alps until the next day. We checked into a guest house and went for a side trip to near the Italian border. It really is a fantastic place for cycling. There are a bunch of very good bike tracks around the foot of the alps and on through Italy.
Kranjska Gora looks to be a ski resort village, but is also a base for outdoor adventures in the Julian Alps in summer. Climbing Slovenia’s highest mountain, Triglav, is quite a popular pastime. It’s not an easy trek, but I understand there are routes you can just walk up. Come prepared for a few days of walking and it should be doable. There are other tracks of varying distance and difficulty around the Alps.
It didn’t look like there was anything interesting between Ljubljana and Bled and the weather was still bad, so we took the train. There was a short ride from the station to the town, which we rode to before going to the campground. Bled is incredibly touristy, but with good reason. Bled lake is quite small and very photogenic, with its island and castle. There are also a lot of adventure activities like canyoning and white water rafting.
Lake Bled, with the island and castle in the background
On the first day we had a few drinks and chilled at the campground. In the evening I went for a bike ride up a nearby very steep dirt road that went for about 5km before opening out to a very peaceful meadow with a few buildings. It was a rough track and more suited to a properly equipped mountain bike than the 1.75″ slicks I was using. The ride back down was still very fun though.
On the second day we visited Vintgar Gorge a short distance away from Bled. It’s a lovely narrow gorge with a walkway following along the rapids, ending at a waterfall. Our photos don’t do it justice, and I highly recommend this place.
In the afternoon we went white water rafting on the Sava river. It was far from extreme, but fun nonetheless. We finished up at the farm of the people who run the place. They had a heap of animals running around, and they gave us a shot of their homemade spirits which was impressively strong, but reasonably drinkable.
Bled was perfect for a relaxing escape from riding in the rain. The lake was beautiful and the campground was one of the best we visited on the trip.
Cycled Varpolje to Polzela
Train Polzela to Ljubljana
Date: 20th May 2008
Our original plan for this days ride was to ride the 45km or so to a campground at Kamnik and perhaps beyond to Ljubljana, but it was such a dreary wet day that we changed our plans and headed towards the safety of the nearer train lines around Šempeter.
We only made it a short distance before we gave up and caught the train from I think Polzela. Being cold and wet isn’t always fun when there’s the possibility of being dry and warm somewhere. Catching the trains at this time of year was pretty easy because there weren’t too many people. I understand it can be difficult with bicycles sometimes though, as it’s entirely up to the conductors whether or not you can take them on. The first train was memorable because of the duck noises it’s horn made as it went past the villages.
In Ljubljana we again opted for a guest house near the station. It’s a very nice old town with a great castle, but nevertheless I would have been happy to skip it if we hadn’t taken the train.
After a great night’s sleep at Majdač we rode through Solčava uphill along the Savinja river to Logarska Dolina – a beautiful short, flat valley with tall mountains around it. It’s worth it to go just to ride along the valley, but there are accommodation options there if you want to stay overnight.
The entrance to Logarska Dolina
View along the valley in Logarska Dolina
The Savinja river begins in Logarska Dolina as a small creek, and we followed it for the rest of the day along it’s long descent through the upper Savinja Valley. It didn’t take long for the Savinja to grow from a fast flowing creek to a fast flowing river. It had been lovely weather all day, but around Ljubno it started to rain again. We hid from the cold rain in a petrol station (of which all in Slovenia are named “Petrol”) and bought some food and, most importantly, a good road map. The only map we could find in Australia was a 1:500 000 that covered most of the region, so a local map with the camping grounds marked was a vast improvement.
After the rain eased we continued down the valley to the nearest campsite, which was in a small village near Rečica. The guy there offered us a place in the campsite’s hostel for an extra euro each above the camping cost, so we took that. It felt a little like we were guinea pigs for the hostel, because it was a bit dodgy (it didn’t seem quite finished) and we were the only ones there, but it was comfortable and warm. There we ate, drank cheap wine, and were generally quite merry.
We woke early and did the final 20 or 30km to Dravograd by morning tea. We followed the main road along the river for the most part, but towards the end a sign sent bikes on a detour along some quieter roads. There were a couple of climbs along this route but they were short and no problem. The route along the river Drava between Maribor and Dravograd is quite beautiful and doesn’t have too much traffic.
In Dravograd we found a cafe that did terrific cakes, then continued along the river Meža (more of a creek) through Ravne na Koroskem, Prevalje, Mežica, and Črna. In Črna we had some pizza (the cheapest eating out of the trip at €3.50), then asked the locals about the road we had chosen to Solčava, and they said if we were in good condition we could make it. We thought they were implying it was reasonably easy, but it turned out to be the hardest part of the entire trip.
For the first few kilometres we followed a creek up a gentle climb, then we hit a very steep dirt road and a lot of rain. It was wet, cold, and very hard going up the slippery gravel. We even pushed the bikes for about half a kilometre. It took about 2 hours to go about 13km to the top of the pass. I think the climb was from around 500m to around 1400m. It was very beautiful, but, exhausted and cold in the rain, we didn’t have an opportunity to appreciate it (or take any photos). This was followed by a very steep downhill, which was just as hard because our exertion had been keeping us warm and now we froze. We finally made it Podolševa and hid from the rain under the eaves of a farmhouse.
When the rain settled we were given directions to a guest house, Majdač, a few kilometres away in Solčava. The woman there was incredibly helpful and for €40 we were given a bed, fed a wonderful dinner and breakfast, and all our clothes and shoes were dried. There was also a terrific view of the Kamnic alps which we had just crossed.
Plane Tallinn to Vienna
Train Vienna to Maribor
Cycled Maribor to Brezno
Date: 16th and 17th May 2008
We had a bit of trouble packing the bikes for the plane because the bike boxes we’d managed to acquire weren’t big enough, but the flight was otherwise OK to Vienna. There we met a Canadian dude who, for a month long trip, had two small panniers and a handlebar bag. We felt a bit ashamed at the amount of gear we had. He had no wet weather gear (apparently the best way to assure good weather) and wasn’t intending on camping, though.
Vienna was an easy city for cycling about, and we did a bit of tourist work before going to bed in our rather comfortable hostel. The next day we caught the train to Maribor in Slovenia before starting to ride towards Dravograd. Getting the bike on the train in Vienna was easy – prepay, and the bike goes on.
We started cycling at around 2pm after grabbing some fruit from the fruit stand. It was an easy fairly flat ride up along the river Drava. Although it was uphill the incline wasn’t noticeable, and it’s a lovely river to ride along. The road had very little of a shoulder but the cars gave a wide berth and it was an easy ride. The only mishap was when Millerine braked suddenly to avoid running into a couple of chooks (yes, there were domestic chooks running across the road) and I ran up the back of her. I bent my front pannier rack but it was easy enough to bend back into shape.
There are no campsites in the area and with the steep river bank any useful campsite is hard to find. We ended up freecamping in the only comfortable spot we could find, which was in the town of Brezno beside the river.