Slovenia and Croatia: Days 15 and 16 – Trogir and Split

Bus Zadar to Trogir
Bus Trogir to Split and back

Dates: 30th and 31st May 2008

We left the campground early as we were obliged to do, and spent a while riding around Zadar. It’s a nice town with a bustling lifestyle, and seems to have a life of its own apart from the tourism. We saw some roman columns and some markets before leaving. It seemed a nice enough town to stay in for a couple of days.

We caught a bus from Zadar to Trogir near Split as we wanted to avoid the busy mainland coastal road. It is up to the driver of each bus service to decide if they’ll take a bike, and they seem generally reluctant to do so. There is a train but it takes a long time with multiple changes and the services are apparently not particularly reliable. The bus drivers are difficult to communicate with, making the process of getting a bike on a bus a pain in the arse, and it’s also more expensive than trains. Avoid taking bikes on the bus in Croatia if you can, although I would also be reluctant to ride the coastal road. We would have fared better if we had been more prepared with better maps and details of all the possible ferry routes.

Trogir is a lovely small town that we stayed in for two nights. It has a small walled old town with a small fortress, and many, many scooters. We camped a few kilometres away from the old town on an island you could access by bridge. The ground was ridiculously hard and I bent the pegs trying to put them in. There were a few beaches which were recommended to us by the tourist info, but they were uninspiring gravel beaches.

The town of Trogir

The town of Trogir

The next day we caught the bus to Split for a day trip. It has a beautiful roman palace in the centre, but apart from that felt like quite a soulless city.

We met an English man doing an England to New Zealand trip who looked set for life. His Burley Nomad trailer was piled up with gear, and was quite colourful with flags from places he’d been to. He claimed to get quite a bit of attention when on the road. Not sure I’d want to pull that weight though. Also he used foot straps rather than cleats, which is unusual for a long distance cyclist.

Slovenia and Croatia: Day 14 – Mali Lošinj

Cycled Osor to Mali Lošinj
Ferry Mali Lošinj to Zadar

Date: 29th May 2008

We left Osor quite early and the ride was very easy down the island of Lošinj to Mali Lošinj. The scenery along these islands was very rather sparse, with more rocks dotting the hilly landscape than trees. We stayed in Mali Lošinj for around six hours until the ferry left, then it was a further six hour trip to Zadar. It was dark once we started cycling from the ferry terminal to our campground, but it was well lit and not too hard to find our way.

The guy serving us at the campground offered us a 50 kuna deal instead of the normal 140 kuna if he could take our money under the table and we agreed to leave before the office opened in the morning.

In Mali Lošinj we dropped into an internet cafe and booked our plane tickets home. There was a new Estonian Air service from Dubrovnik to Tallinn, which we booked for the 7th of June. It cut our trip short a little both in time and distance, but it was the easiest way for us to get home.